Formentera – Die Karibik von Ibiza | ARD Reisen

Formentera – Die Karibik von Ibiza | ARD Reisen

SUBTITLE: Hessischer Rundfunk * Music: Moby – “Porcelain” * We have an underwater visibility of almost 20 meters around Formentera. The water here is even clearer than in the Maldives, Thailand or Belize. The reason for this is the Neptune seaweed. I work with an app that shows me all the seagrass areas around Formentera.

She also shows me every single boat or yacht that is anchored here off Formentera. I check this app every hour, even at night. If I see a boat anchored in the sea grass, no matter what time of day or night, I head out to sea

To ask the boat skipper to anchor somewhere else. My name is Ivan Moreno. I am responsible for protecting the Neptune Grass of Formentera and Ibiza. * Music: Moby – “Porcelain” * Formentera has given top priority to protecting this special ecological habitat. For Ivan Moreno, this task is not just a job,

It is his passion. One of the largest Neptune grass meadows in the world grows between Ibiza and Formentera . It is eight kilometers long, around 100,000 years old and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Neptune grass carries out photosynthesis, needs sunlight and only thrives on sandy ground and in clean water.

We are now leaving the port of Formentera and I am heading for the most popular anchorages off the island’s beaches. I check whether the boats are anchored in the sand, because that is the only place where anchoring is allowed. If not, I explain to the skipper how it works

And why he is not allowed to anchor in the sea grass. So if someone anchors in the seagrass, I tell them that it is protected. It is protected by law. Formentera is very serious about Neptune grass protection. Hundreds of boats moor in the bays every day in high season. Ivan Moreno controls conscientiously,

Regardless of whether it is a small sailing dinghy or a 50 million euro superyacht. It’s always about the boat’s anchor, because it destroys the sensitive plant. Everything’s okay here, I don’t see any anchors in the seaweed. It’s all ok. The big yachts aren’t really a problem, says Ivan,

The experienced skippers know their stuff and don’t want any trouble. They are often inexperienced boatmen who simply do not know what a valuable and huge treasure lies on the seabed of the island. It is the most important thing we have. Neptune grass is a plant that filters water.

It is only because of them that we have this special water here. If we destroy this plant the water will become cloudy and then the tourists will stay away. The seagrass only grows one centimeter per year. It is extremely important that we protect the Neptune grass meadows.

If we don’t do this, we may lose them forever. The Neptune grass meadow in the Mediterranean is the life insurance for Formentera. Ivan is sure that if everyone knew this, no one would be annoyed about the leaves washing up on the beach anymore.

Because they also have a purpose on land, they keep the sand on the beach. *Music builds. * The Balearic islands of Menorca, Mallorca and Ibiza are well known. Formentera is not only very small, the island also has no airport, access is via Ibiza. From there the ferry traffic is perfectly organized.

The nine-kilometer crossing to a truly amazing island paradise in the Mediterranean takes just under 30 minutes. Several ferry providers still run every half hour between Ibiza and Formentera. Traffic will soon be reduced for environmental reasons. If you want to travel by car, you must first obtain a permit,

As the number of vehicles allowed on the island is limited in summer. In high season, day tourists from Ibiza in particular flood the small island. Tourism is Formentera’s main source of income. Some tourists also stay over the weekend. But only the real Formentera fans have a real vacation here.

Right at the ferry pier in the small port of La Savina you can decide which vehicle you want to use to explore the island. E-mobility is particularly promoted and sustainability is a very big issue on the small island. However, the cult vehicle on Formentera is still the Mehari.

We are celebrating Carole and Cecile’s 50th birthday here today. However, this birthday was last year, but we couldn’t travel to Formentera due to corona. So now we’re finally here and having a good time. # All I need is your love tonight. # Formentera is clear.

19 kilometers long, almost two kilometers wide at its narrowest point. 70 kilometers of coast and lots of beaches. The most famous beaches in the north of the island are Illetes in the west and Levante on the east side. Illetes in particular is very popular with boat fans.

Whether chartered or on your own yacht: Anyone who has the money will come to Formentera by boat from Ibiza at least once, and some just for lunch. But it can also be done in a less luxurious way. Formentera is full of scooters, mopeds and bicycles, especially in high season .

The parking lots in Illetes and Levante are full by noon at the latest in summer. Pedestrians have a clear advantage. The dune landscape at Platja de ses Illetes is protected. In summer the paths and beaches are often crowded. In the low season, however, it is relaxed and you can enjoy this special nature.

The northern tip of Formentera is an impressive long strip of sand. You should definitely plan a beach walk to the end of the island. A ford leads from the northernmost point of Formentera to Es Palmador, an uninhabited island that is completely protected.

Many visitors to Formentera walk through the ford when the sea is calm. Very few people know how dangerous this is. If the sea is calm and you walk over to Es Palmador and then stay over there for maybe an hour and then want to go back, the conditions may have changed completely.

The wind may have changed. The current can suddenly be very strong and then it becomes really dangerous. The current can pull you out, you get into a stressful situation, you have to fight against the current, yes and then you could drown. Unfortunately, it happens again and again, every year.

That’s why it’s forbidden to walk over. Calo des Morts, the bay of death, a mini beach that is magical. The bay probably owes its scary name to the difficult descent and ascent. It is quieter in the south of the island, even though it is only ten kilometers from the port of La Savina.

At the end of the kilometer-long and popular Mitjorn beach there is more space than in the north. * relaxed music * Right next to the Bay of Death is one of the most romantic places in Formentera. The Bartolo beach bar has been here for decades

And not much has changed in all those years. * relaxed music * Bartolo runs the beach shack with his two sons. Sangria and burgers are said to be some of the best on the island. * relaxed music * Instead of love locks, there is a wishing tree with love shells.

* relaxed music * Formentera is like a magnet. There is a saying for the soul of all terrorists who come. It is very old. Formentera again or again or never again. You love it or you can’t stand it. There is no middle. About as. * romantic music * * romantic music *

The sun shines everywhere on Formentera 300 days a year. When it really rains, unfortunately far too rarely, it rains everywhere here. San Francesc is a nice change from beach life, and not just when it rains. Administrative headquarters and shopping location, nice restaurants and the Café Matinal.

Since 1988 you have been able to have an extensive breakfast and lunch here. Everything is homemade, from the jam to the bread to the teriyaki sauce. Ina from Mörfelden has been the boss and heart of Café Matinal for over 30 years . I planned to get away as quickly as possible.

It was the middle of winter. It wasn’t cold, but rainy. I was initially disappointed. But then I met a friend. I got along very well with her. I also had a sewing machine with me. We came with a box van. It was packed. I didn’t have that many things.

But it was all in there. We started sewing and sold things on the beach. I sewed shorts and T-shirts. That was quite nice. This is what I looked like when I came to the island at 21 or 22 years old. And then hippie Ina from Hesse met him here:

Josep, a former disco owner on Formentera. Still the great love. They have three children and they all help out in the café. Beni, Kim and Jordi, all Formentera children. Ina has been on the island for 40 years now. Formentera is her happiness and she feels it with all her senses.

The smell, for example. That really turned me on from the start. Rosemary and freegola is the wild thyme, the smell, that is the island. You smell that very strongly in winter. And the figs. When they ripen, everything smells sweet like figs. That’s in summer, July, August.

This is also crazy and the essence of Formentera. Ina’s husband Josep is now retired. He still shops for the café every now and then, but he also loves his freedom. In the middle of the village square in front of the Catholic church in San Francesk there is an LGBTQ bench,

A clear sign that lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender and queer people are all welcome here. An island with a strong Catholic influence and yet open and modern. This contrast has always been in Formentera, since the hippie times. People who experienced that back then are in power now. It is young people who rule.

They are open and are in favor of modernity coming in and also a bit of diversity. In addition to openness, Formentera’s island council stands above all for sustainability. The general trend of everything being fancier, everything being bigger is passing the island by. Formentera absorbs all cultures. That’s good.

Many people have understood that there is a world that is different. Formentera is a pearl of it. We have to take care of them and preserve them. Ina and Josep’s son Beni also wants his island to be handled very carefully. The salt flats are a very important place in Formentera for Beni.

They belong to the Parc Natural de ses Salines nature reserve and were the only industry on the island before tourism. Beni is a photographer and drone pilot and the aerial photos in this film were taken by him. For me the most important thing is that the nature of Formentera remains

And that people recognize it. That’s why I take photos with the drone. The geometry and the color and everything is fragile. Fragile. A fragile and vulnerable island if left unprotected. Although the island of Formentera is very small and manageable compared to other holiday islands in the Mediterranean

, it still has a lot to offer. Cap Barbaria is only accessible on foot or by bike, a leisurely two kilometer walk. In total, there are over 30 green routes and 100 kilometers of hiking and cycling paths in Formentera, which are consistently closed to motorized traffic. Cap Barbaria is

The closest to the African coast of all the Balearic Islands. The lighthouse of Es Cap de Barbaria rises impressively over the 100 meter sloping cliffs. Just a few kilometers further north, a completely different landscape surprises in the west of the island. Cala Saona fascinates with its turquoise blue water,

A protected dream bay surrounded by cliffs and framed by pine forests. This is Joel Vilson, self-made man and probably the nicest paella delivery person in the entire Mediterranean. Some skippers only take their guests to Cala Saona because Joel works there.

When he plows through the waves in his motorboat with the paella on his head , that’s an experience in itself. In the summer his job is really strenuous, boating for eight hours standing still and he still can’t get enough of the sea. I want to show you a very special cave here.

You have to climb up. Then you have to jump into a circular water hole and then dive under the rock like a sink siphon. Yes and then you come out on the other side of the rocks. It is my favorite place here on the island. * Lounge music *

I see this here every day and I fall in love with these colors here every day. Oh quite a lot of jellyfish but not a problem for me. I can swim zigzag. This is a natural place here. But it looks like a roller coaster in there. Climbing, jumping, diving, it’s really cool there.

Isn’t that dangerous? Well, somehow the fun things are often a bit dangerous. The jellyfish here are called Medusas and the stings burn like fire. * dynamic music * If the sea is choppy, it’s better to leave cave diving to the locals. Because what Joel is doing here is definitely not safe.

When the sea is calm, things look completely different here. Then the sea is not so high in the cave. But now with the waves it’s going up and down violently, just a bit of a roller coaster. So now you have to have the courage to jump, be sure to bend your legs!

It’s not very deep and you could get injured. One, two, three. * calm beats * How was it? It was great. Is that still exciting for you? Yes, absolutely, all the time. I’m always a little bit scared and today it was particularly exciting because of the high waves. Joel is from Argentina.

He is a sailor and also transports boats to the Canary Islands. The sea is his passion and the island of Formentera, where he has lived for 8 years. The restaurant Joel works for is a traditional restaurant that has been in the family for decades. Joan Costa is just 23 years old.

He was a chef in a star restaurant on the mainland when his mother called him to tell him that his grandfather’s restaurant was becoming available. It was immediately clear to him that he was going back to his homeland. Many people come to Formentera. In Ibiza it’s more about partying.

These are not the tourists we want here in Formentera. We have to be careful that it doesn’t become like Ibiza or some Greek islands, things like that happen very quickly. We all need tourists here, we need to make money. But we must never lose sight of the idea of ​​sustainability

. We have to find a good balance. Anyone who comes to Formentera is not looking for star cuisine, but rather authentic cuisine that is based on the island’s roots, says Joan Costa. He has built a large supply network of fishermen and farmers on his island. We try to use only regional products

Here in the restaurant as best we can , that’s our philosophy. This is quite difficult in Formentera. Because there is one thing above all else here: fish and seafood. We still try the “zero kilometer” principle, i.e. as short distances as possible. It’s crazy that it’s much cheaper

To buy the products in Valencia or Barcelona and then ship them to Formentera. But it all has to do with the lack of water here. We simply don’t have enough water. This is of course a real problem for the farmers here on the island. Formentera has no springs or groundwater resources.

Rainwater is the only fresh water. What drips from the island’s taps comes from desalination plants. Everything that grows here takes a lot of effort, and people are particularly proud of the island’s wine. The Payes, the farmers of Formentera, are highly respected people on the island.

Everything that grows in the dry earth is used here. * dynamic music * The hippie myth of Formentera can still be felt on Mitjorn Beach in the southeast of the island . The Piratabus, a cult beach bar, has been a magical attraction on Formentera for 50 years. Sven Heinrich is the boss.

He took over the bar from his wife’s uncle. Pink Floyd, Bob Dylan and many other rock legends are said to have been here. A discarded bus used to serve as a bar. It had to be disposed of. The Piratabus probably has the best Mojtos outside of Cuba. That’s a mojito.

We mash the quartered limes with brown sugar. We mash it up. Then add the mint on top to give it some flavor. Then they will be packed up straight away. They go into the furgoneta or into the cooling, depending on the temperature. Then it starts to ferment a tiny bit.

The fermentation will of course be interrupted this evening when we add the alcohol. But that brings that special intense taste. But the secret is that we use absolutely fresh products. Fresh limes, fresh mint and a good rum, important! We don’t have anything that has anything to do with syrup.

No substitutes or anything. This is really pure. It is considered the best on the island. And we are proud of that too. The boss himself is also responsible for the salads, all made on site. I learned to cook from my mother. As that is the case, it starts with this.

In the winter I cook right here. Then there is a wok burner here and I cook Thai food at the weekend . That happened because I went on my honeymoon to Thailand 30, no, 31 years ago. I liked it so much that I’ve been cooking Thai food ever since.

For over 30 years now. This will be a chickpea salad with sheep’s cheese. With dried tomatoes and parsley and onions. Then a vinaigrette with oriental spices is added. This is now one of our most popular salads. Sven Heinrich took the step of going to Formentera

And leaving his hometown of Cologne 17 years ago. It was vital to me, you could say. I got really sick in Cologne. I got the various warning shots you can get when you’re stressed and working a lot. How important it was for me is shown by the fact

That I no longer have these diseases since then. My health is much better. There is positive and negative stress. And most importantly: I haven’t regretted it once. Not once! I never had the thought of going back. Sure, sometimes you curse it too. “Isn’t it so important?” Or: “What are you actually doing here?”

But I never thought about going back. I am so happy to be able to work in a place like this. I always say there is no better dishwashing place than this. There’s the sink in front. When you look out there at the beach… What more could you want?

Or, if you come down here… My saying is: It’s better to be barefoot on the beach than to drive a Jaguar to the office. I really prefer that, something like that. That’s my attitude. And that’s how I get through the day well. Formentera attracts people who want to slow down

In a natural paradise whose original character has been largely preserved through strict coastal protection and construction freezes and whose landscape is so varied. Ele experiences the nature of this island mentally and physically. She was searching for her self for a long time. She found it in Formentera. Ele started climbing six years ago.

Since then, she has continued to discover rocks that may have never been walked on before. Ever since I discovered climbing, I haven’t been able to stop. The thing about it for me is that you get to a point where you don’t know whether you can continue or not.

It’s the point where you have to solve problems and find answers, just before the loss of control that gives me the adrenaline. * Music * Climbing, the ascent, just like Formentera, also has this connection to nature. For me, the connection to nature has always been important in my life, an experience that I

Have never had as intensively as anywhere else in the world. There is an attraction, a magic of the island and a connection to the sea, the rocks and the simple things in life. Not like other places where there is a lot of annoying noise. I’m attracted to being in a place

Where there aren’t many options. As a climber and photographer, and as a feminist creative person in general, I can create a lot of new things here on Formentera. Ele will continue to look for climbing routes on the island. She shares them with climbing athletes all over the world. And she wants people

To experience Formentera in this completely natural way. * Music * Back to the pirate bus. The bar crew prepares for the evening rush. The fermented Mojito now gets its alcoholic infusion. * Music * Let’s hope that Formentera’s beach shacks can stay exactly as they are: original and authentic. * calm music *

The Far de la Mola, the highest point in Formentera, 120 meters above sea level. Jules Verne was also fascinated by this place and mentioned it in his novel “Journey through the Solar World”. The island’s plateau, a place where artists in particular feel comfortable. Hello, my name is Natalia Lisinicchia.

And this is my screen printing workshop Pluton. I live on a farm in La Mola in Formentera. Natalia studied art in Barcelona, ​​her parents fell in love on Formentera and at some point Natalia felt the longing to live and work on this island. Generally speaking, I make “pop art.”

This art is understandable to every person in the world. I use the screen printing technique for my work, a traditional way of reproduction that gives each work a special finish. There is a socio-political message behind Natalia’s colorful art. I want to convey the joy of acceptance.

For me it’s a lot about being happy, for example feeling good in your own body. It is a work that speaks about differences. No matter what color your skin is, what size you are or who you love, what matters is that you are happy.

And by that I don’t just mean externally, but also internally. So, it’s about honest happiness. When people are happy, it is much easier for them to accept others and bring society together better. Natalia sells her art at the hippie market in El Pilar de La Mola. On Wednesdays and Sundays, only things

Made in Formentera are sold here. Natalia sees herself as a nomad. She always needs changes. Your next stop will be Berlin. I find German holidaymakers to be very open when it comes to my sales here at the market. They represent this expression of freedom that is also present in my works.

They also appreciate the certain craziness and color madness that is in my art. That’s why I’m looking forward to going to Berlin very soon. Leaving Formentera is a big step. It will be a completely different life for Natalia. Her friends also think about new paths from time to time,

But those who live in paradise find it difficult to part with it. On a boat tour with Carlos and Miriam, that’s a very special feeling of life. Being on the boat, sailing and going around the island gives me a bit of freedom. You can enjoy the island differently from the sea.

Everything is more open and calmer. In summer Formentera can be very overwhelming. There are really a lot of people here. In winter it is much more relaxed. I like sailing because for me it is a meditative activity that requires concentration. The only way to get to Es Palmador, Formentera’s uninhabited neighboring island, is

By boat. Carlos, who offers boat tours on his traditional yacht, avoids coming here in high season. In summer one boat anchors here next to another. *Music* Es Palmador is a very magical place but also a very privileged one. You can only get here if you have a boat

Or if you pay for the trip. For me as a resident, there is of course a part that likes tourism. But another part of me doesn’t like tourism at all. I mean tourists who come and don’t care about the place here and leave their trash behind.

People who come from Ibiza and are only here for a day, they just overcrowd the place. There are also a lot of rich people with huge boats who just come to compare themselves with others to show how much money they have. For me, Formentera is a place that embraces me.

An island with borders. a place that made me feel safe and reconnect with myself and nature. There is a strong polarity between this pure and slow life and the explosive tourism in the summer months on this small island. * Music * Copyright subtitles: hr 2022

Noch mehr Inselreisen findet ihr in der ARD Mediathek: https://1.ard.de/reisen-menorca?yt=d

Die zweitkleinste Balearen-Insel, die nicht umsonst die „europäische Karibik“ genannt wird, lockt mit kristallklarem und türkisblauem Wasser, endlosen weißen Stränden sowie Wander- und Radwegen in Hülle und Fülle. Formentera – ist ein echtes Mini-Paradies. Gerade mal 19 Kilometer lang und an der schmalsten Stelle 1,5 Kilometer breit.

00:00 Intro
01:27 Schutz des Neptungras
04:58 Die Insel Formentera
09:31 Caló d’es Mort und Platja de Migjorn
12:08 Sant Francesc
16:20 Salinen und das Cap Barbaria
18:35 Höhlentaucherei im Cala Saona
26:38 Piratabus am Platja Migjorn
31:49 Klettern am Punta de sa Pedrera
37:04 Leuchtturm Far de Formentor und El Pilar de la Mola
40:13 Nach S’Espalmador mit dem Boot
43:44 Outro

Zwischen Ibiza und Formentera wächst eine der größten Posidonia- Seegraswiesen der Welt. Sie ist acht Kilometer lang, rund 100.000 Jahre alt und UNESCO-Welterbe. Diese grüne Lunge des Mittelmeers ist verantwortlich für das außergewöhnlich klare Wasser. Formentera hat den Schutz dieses besonderen ökologischen Lebensraums höchste Priorität eingeräumt.

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“Formentera – Insel-Paradies im Mittelmeer” ist ein Film von Natascha Rhein, Redaktion
Claudia Bohm. Dieser Film wurde 2022 im Auftrag des HR produziert. Alle Aussagen und Fakten entsprechen dem damaligen Stand und wurden seitdem nicht aktualisiert.